Tuesday, January 10, 2023

Quilted Coat Construction

It's hard to beat a person who never gives up.
~Babe Ruth

Quilting


Channeling the Babe, I just keep moving forward with the jacket. Well, mainly forward. Lots of redos. The muslin fit DS decently. I think the body is a bit loose but he likes it that way. The sheet used for the muslin is so old he had to be very careful putting it on and off. The shoulder dart could be extended half an inch, the sleeves need another couple of inches, and the jacket will be shortened four inches. {Currently it hits a bit above his knees.}

He wants it to look like a quilt. {He specifically commented on my colorful work. [I'm wondering what he's thinking. Is he planning a career as a clown?} I have a stack of Japanese indigos I've never used. Some browns might help. 

The sleeve was two pieces. I pinned the front and back sleeve together and drew a new single sleeve with a dart at the shoulder. Ok, it's slightly curved but will still be easier than trying to piece two quilted sleeve parts together. {There's a photo below.} When combining two pieces, be sure to take the seam allowances off both parts. 

Once that chore was done I copied all six adjusted full pattern pieces on my own tracing paper, back, collar, and both fronts and sleeves. No "line up on this fold line" on any piece. No "turn it over and cut again."
 

To figure things out, blocks go right on the pattern pieces as I work. When placements are poorly located it's usually quickly visible... if I pay attention. This is definitely ad hoc and improvisational. Already there are too many white squares and the green won't cut it. The yellow may be okay. Lots more work to do. 

The blocks will get smaller as the pieces are sewn together. I'm not sure how many will be needed but I don't want a bunch of extra seams in the seam allowances. I have a plan for that problem.  See the sideways "flying goose" in the left set? It's a simplification of the design to reduce bulk in the seams. Most of the goose will be discarded when the pattern piece is cut. The missing design won't be noticed... at least, that's the idea.

The left and right sides of the center front are identical because the jacket overlaps there. These blocks will be lined up so the center of each is the center front of both sides of the jacket. 


Here's my alteration of the sleeve with a dart at the top. It will be covered by a block and then sewn together and trimmed afterwards. The current decision here is whether to align the sides or centers of the blocks along that overlapped seam. It probably will come down to whichever will uses fewer blocks. 

Raglan sleeve pattern piece

In this photo the front left, back, and right front are above. The left and right sleeves are below. Things are looking more coherent. Extra background triangles are arranged on the bottom right. 


The quilt block is basically a four-patch on point. The triangles are cut a bit larger than needed. I matched the seams and mades sure the triangle apex sits at the seam of the four-patch so they will form decent squares. A good press and then I can trim the block to size, making sure seam allowances at all the four-patch corners are correct. As blocks are sewed together, I put the pattern on top and check that things are where I want and reach the cutting edges. 


All the while, batting choices run through my mind. Cotton, silk, or polyester. QS reminds me that "cotton kills" in the cold but it's not terribly cold here. Poly might be best but I don't have any. Does this jacket even need batting? Or just some flannel?

Reading

In The Very Secret Society of Irregular Witches by Sangu Mandanna, Mika Moon lives an isolated life, moving every six months to hide her powers from regular people. One day, she begins posting online videos pretending to be a witch, which leads to the unexpected offer of a job teaching a trio of adolescent witches at Nowhere House. The story was much more fun than I expected. Well written, too. 

Enjoy the day, Ann