Tuesday, January 3, 2023

A Quilted Coat

Life is too short to wake up in the morning with regrets. So, love the people who treat you right, forgive the ones who don't, and believe that everything happens for a reason. If you get a chance, take it. If it changes your life, let it. Nobody said it'd be easy, they just promised it would be worth it.
~Dr. Seuss

Quilting


Five years ago my younger son asked me to make him a quilted coat. I just looked at him. What? Well, it didn't need to be a coat; he'd like a poncho. What?? Assuming he was kidding, I politely ignored his request. Turns out he was serious. I'm terrified of this project but what the heck. Dr. Seuss' words encourage me to jump in and try. Now that we're in the same town I have a chance to make one that might even fit. What's the worst that could happen? If it doesn't work, I can convert it into that poncho.

I looked at quilt coats online. Most are for women... not quite what's required. I started a secret Pinterest board to corral all the ideas. How long or short? What type of sleeve? Collar or not? Buttons or open? Pockets inside or out? It turns out I've missed a slew of coat quilt-alongs but some people posted their work. More ideas.

Every time I served as program chair for a guild, I asked Rachel Clark to speak, a talented artist who makes and wears exciting {and amusing and poignant} clothes. Everyone always enjoyed wearing her designs on the runway of our shows. She has a great website and some time-tested patterns. I even have two of them still resting in my files. 

I read anything else I could find about the process. Martha Moore's Buried Diamond blog was a {new to me} discovery. Such a beautiful coat! While I've French seamed several times, I'd forgotten Hong Kong seams. That might be a handy trick. It won't work for a reversible jacket but his won't be. 

There are also videos on YouTube. The Tamarack Jacket sew along by Grainline Studio is fourteen episodes of information for their jacket but much could apply to many quilted jackets. Muna and Broad have videos for their Grainger jacket with excellent tutorials. 

I looked at coat patterns. Raglan sleeves would give him more room. Eventually this old pattern showed up. 


Yes, the fashion sketches look dated. Somehow it reminds me of the Brat Pack movies like St. Elmo’s Fire and Pretty in Pink. But the line drawing on the back has a straight body. The epaulets, pocket flaps, and belt loops will be ignored. 


I made a muslin from an old bedsheet based on DS' {darling son} chest measurements {and what the pattern says fit.} It was way too big. Way, way too big. So I made a second one two sizes smaller. This week he'll come over to try it on.

Reading


Catriona McPherson's other series are deeply psychological murders {too much for me} but this is a romp starring counselor Lexy Campbell who marries an LA dentist when he visits Scotland, moves to California, and soon divorces him. On her way out of the country she becomes embroiled in a murder. The situations are funny and sad by turns but the dialogue sparkles. 

Enjoy the day, Ann

7 comments:

patty a. said...

I am looking forward to seeing your progress on this coat. Such an interesting and challenging project! Thanks for the links; I definitely will be checking those out.

Sally Langston Warren said...

I look forward to checking out these links! What an interesting project. You might want to look at Stanclothing on Instagram, or www.stanlosangeles.com for their website. He makes all the clothes he sells from found textiles. Some are quilted. You may find some inspiration from his work. I look forward to seeing what you create!

Mystic Quilter said...

Have you seen the quilted coats from Victoria Findlay Wolfe? I signed up for two of her online lectures/demonstrations in the early days of Covid and determined to make one myself - still not progressed! I did buy a pattern though a couple of weeks ago, very simple and no tricky sleeve seams. I shall be very interested to follow your progress Ann!

Kaja said...

I'm another who will be following this with interest. I've seen some really beautiful patchwork coats and felt tempted to try one, but haven't done more than ponder. Your resources look very helpful. Also, I hadn't come across Rachel Clark before, but I love her website!

Nann said...

Would a Japanese-style coat work? I did a google search for "traditional men's clothing Japan" to get beyond kimono--one style is "samue." But a barn-jacket (think L.L. Bean) or a duffle coat pattern would work. How quilty does he want it? (There is a difference between patchwork and quilting.)

Robin said...

I would love to make a quilted jacket but, for myself. Although I have one son who would probably like one too. This is going to be fun.

Millie said...

I made a quilted jacket years and years ago. The tricky thing is the bulk. No matter where I see them - at quilt shows, usually - they are not particularly flattering on a woman’s body. I figured out how to make mine so it wasn’t bulky. Now listen, I did this about 40 years ago, so I can’t remember how I did it. But choosing the style of coat is vital. Mine had a stand up collar (I think) and patch pockets. Believe it or not I made it on commission, so I don’t have it. But it can be done. And it does take a lot of thought. And skill. I tell everyone that if you know how to sew clothes, making a quilt is a piece of cake, but if you don’t know how to sew, making a quilt is trickier. And if ALL you know how to sew is a quilt, then you are at no advantage when it comes time to making clothes. So if you already know how to make clothes, then you will be fine. Otherwise, I would make a mock up first, before you get into the fussy fancy parts. And be very aware of what you use for batting. You want it to hold up, but not collapse and settle or clump when washed or whatever. Seams are a real challenge. I sewed my seams together with just the outer layer, then butted the batting so it would like flat, then folded the inner fabric over and hand sewed it closed. That’s how i avoided bulk in the big side seams, and in the sleeve. Like I said, it takes thought. Good luck.